Few know that Western Australia might have once been French, thanks to 18th-century explorers. This legacy lives on in names like Cape Mentelle, Point Picquet, and Cape Clairault—scattered along WA’s spectacular Cape to Cape Track.
Stretching 135km between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, this walk traces the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge, delivering stunning views of limestone cliffs, granite outcrops, towering sand dunes, and pristine beaches. Inland loops reveal quiet woodlands and the majestic Boranup karri forest. Whether you hike independently, join a guided tour, or opt for a luxury experience, there’s a version of the track to suit every style and budget.
Choose Your Adventure
The track takes 5–7 days to complete and can be walked north to south or vice versa. The lighthouses at each end — Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin — are iconic bookends to the journey. Between October and December, wildflowers bloom and humpback whales breach offshore. From June to September, you might spot southern right whales. Weather can change, so pack for rain at any time.
You can camp along the way or join a guided tour like the one I chose: a five-day, 100km journey that included vineyard stops and comfortable nightly retreats. Our walk began at Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, built in 1903 from local limestone. The 19m structure stands atop a 110m bluff, its light visible 46km out to sea.
Lighthouses have tales, and this one is no different. During construction, a jar of valuable mercury fell from a nearby jetty. A sailor who dove to retrieve it drowned, and the mercury remains buried in the sands of Quindalup—one of the many Aboriginal place names ending in “-up,” meaning “place of.”
Into the Wildflowers
Our group of 11 walkers and two guides started southward along the coast, through low scrublands that erupt into colour during wildflower season. The path, mostly wide and well-marked, alternates between track and firm beach. Around 14km in, we reached Sugarloaf Rock, a prime whale-watching spot, then arrived in Yallingup — “place of love” — just in time for a swim.
Geologically, the track is a lesson in ancient history. The ridge’s base is made of granite and gneiss, some over a billion years old. On top lies Tamala limestone, only a few million years old, shaped into dramatic cliffs and smooth beaches by centuries of erosion.
Coastal Nooks and Ancient Caves
The second and third days took us deeper into the Leeuwin-Naturaliste landscape, revealing jagged rock formations and small caves. One highlight was the trail to Moses Rock, which offers views over thick dunes and vibrant vegetation like parrot bush and moss-covered tea-tree thickets. From here, we were lucky to witness whales breaching offshore — a breathtaking display of raw power.
We also visited Ellensbrook Homestead, built in the 1850s by Alfred and Ellen Bussell. It's the oldest European settlement along this coast and stands as a quiet monument to early settler life.
The ridge top offers more wildflowers — fringe lilies, milk maids, purple flags, and orchids like the pink enamel and scented sun varieties. Their scent, a mix of basil and lavender, filled the air. For budding botanists, Find That Flower by Jane Scott is a handy companion. And for your taste buds? With over 100 vineyards nearby, sampling the Margaret River region’s wines each evening added a rich layer to our adventure.
Forest and Finish Line
Day four took us into the Boranup karri forest, the westernmost point these giant eucalyptus trees grow. Stretching over 60 metres tall, these pale-barked giants are awe-inspiring. Although much of the forest was logged in the 1890s, today’s mature regrowth is over a century old and teeming with diverse undergrowth, including banksias and grass trees.
After days of exposed ridges and salty air, the forest offered a cool, quiet respite. It felt like walking through a cathedral of green.
On our final day, we visited the Cosy Corner blowholes — natural rock shafts formed over thousands of years. When the sea is rough, waves rush through these channels and explode upward with force. It’s a dramatic reminder of the natural power shaping this coastline.
Finally, we arrived at Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, 100km and five days from where we started. We stood together—once strangers, now bonded by shared stories, sore feet, and coastal windburn — and smiled for one last photo.
The Cape to Cape Track is more than a walk; it’s a journey through history, geology, and some of WA’s finest scenery. Whether you're chasing wildflowers, whales, or a good glass of red, this track delivers.