Great Walks escapes the tourist masses and discovers parts of Japan few travellers get to experience.
For many visitors, Japan can feel like a whirlwind of neon lights, bullet trains and bustling streets. But occasionally, a journey offers something different – a quieter, more authentic connection with the country. Life’s an Adventure, in partnership with the Japanese Tourism Board (JTB), has curated just such a journey: an eight-day pack-free guided walk along the Kunisaki Spiritual Trail on Kyushu, Japan’s southernmost main island.
Our tour began in Fukuoka, where I met our guide, Tetsue, and the rest of the group. Tetsue, fluent in English and full of warmth, welcomed us with a few etiquette tips and light-hearted language lessons. “You’re welcome” sounds like “Don’t-Touchy-Moustache,” she joked, setting the tone for an engaging and informative week.
Temples, Legends and Local Life
Our first stop was a temple founded in 810 AD. There, we learned how to greet Buddhist deities respectfully: bow twice, clap twice, say your name, and wish good health to loved ones. It was a peaceful beginning to an immersive journey.
Later, we passed through the Ao-no Domon tunnel, carved by a single monk over thirty years in the 1700s. At a remote mountainside temple, a resident monk, born and raised within its sacred grounds, shared her experience with the help of Tetsue. She told us how rare and meaningful it was to meet Western visitors – a humbling moment for us all.
At the summit, we found hundreds of stone statues representing monks from long ago. Legend says one of them resembles you. We each wrote down a personal worry and left it behind, both literally and symbolically, lightening our emotional burdens.
That afternoon, we were welcomed at a local rice field by elderly residents who rarely see tourists. They greeted us with homemade rice and sweet potato snacks, and showed us the steps of rice cultivation. That evening, we arrived at a traditional ryokan in Kunisaki. With natural hot spring baths, paper walls and timber beams, it would be our home for four nights.
Dinner each evening was an event, prepared by skilled local chefs using seasonal ingredients. Dressed in kimono gowns, we watched intricate knife work and precise plating. One night featured fugu, the famously poisonous pufferfish, expertly prepared by a licensed chef, followed by a sushi feast.
The Rising Appeal of Japan
Japan is now the third most popular overseas destination for Australians. I asked Life’s an Adventure General Manager, Mark Norek, who joined the tour, why the appeal continues to grow.
“Japan has this rare ability to be ancient and modern at once,” Mark explained. “Australians are drawn to the contrast – a Zen garden next to a high-speed train, a centuries-old shrine beside cutting-edge design. For walkers, the landscapes are incredibly varied – misty forests, coastal villages, volcanic peaks – and they are always connected to culture. Add great food, warm people, safety and reliability, and it is no surprise people keep coming back.”
We continued along the Kunisaki Long Trail, once walked by monks only once a decade. The path led us past centuries-old shrines and statues carved into cliffs and stone, many hidden from public view for generations.
A special treat followed: a private tour of a museum that housed ancient religious statues made of precious metals. Normally kept behind curtains, these artefacts were brought into view for us thanks to JTB’s access.
Climbing High and Digging Deep
Day four featured the most challenging hike. With Tetsue and a guest guide, we climbed six mountain peaks, often using chains to pull ourselves up steep sections. It was tough but unforgettable. The shared effort and support among our group brought us closer together.
Returning to the Long Trail, we passed through quiet villages and historic architecture. At one temple, a monk gave us a blessing and spoke about his life of solitude. Later that day, deep in the forest, we joined a fire festival. Each of our names was written on a small wooden cinder, blessed by a monk and placed in the ceremonial fire – a powerful, personal moment.
Unlike mainstream tours, Life’s an Adventure partners with local communities, offering travellers unique access and supporting lesser-known areas.
When I asked Mark about the challenges of creating such a varied itinerary, he said, “The goal was to honour Kunisaki’s spiritual roots while giving people comfort and flexibility. Some of the trails are rugged, so we balanced those with vehicle transfers, cultural visits and time to relax in onsens. The real highlight is the personal touch – meeting locals, attending tea ceremonies or standing in silence outside a temple as the sun rises.”
Island Adventures and Samurai Towns
Next, we took a ferry to Himeshima, or Princess Island. After a bumpy crossing, we stayed in another traditional inn. Dinner included a regional delicacy: dancing prawns, served alive. I passed, though some in the group gave it a try.
The next morning, we joined a local cooking class and shared laughs over karaoke. Later, we visited a sake brewery and sampled different varieties while learning the careful craft of sake-making.
Our final walk led us to Kitsuki, a beautifully preserved Samurai town. A JTB guide walked us through traditional homes and explained their strategic architecture. I even got to hold a real Samurai sword and longbow – a lifelong dream come true.
We visited a 420-year-old miso shop and learned its family history. Then, at a serene tea house, we took part in a tea ceremony led by an eleventh-generation tea master. The focus, stillness and precision were a perfect end to our cultural experience.
A Fitting Farewell
Our last evening was spent at a former royal residence, where we shared a degustation dinner and reflected on a week filled with discovery, connection and wonder. I asked Mark for his elevator pitch, and he captured it perfectly:
“Imagine an eight-day walk through Japan’s spiritual heartland – ancient temples, sacred forests and stunning landscapes – without carrying a heavy pack. Along the way, you’ll meet monks, soak in onsens and enjoy world-class cuisine. It is for those who want to experience a Japan that most never see.” Arigatou gozaimasu.
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Words_Bobby Butler